May be take little more time but we need a very good grinding without gaps. Make pauses when you are on one end of angle to cool down, or use water to helping it stay cool. After some passes and when the grinding sides, start to have different width or have already grind about 1. Pretty good straight and clear without any gaps and the same width 6mm from one end to other at both sides. However I would like to point out there has been no allowance made for different thickness materials.
At the moment it would bend very thin sheet but if a thicker sheet were attempted it would seize. This would then allow sufficient space between the bender and the brake when bending the sheet. Just like a normal sheet bending machine.
Reply 4 years ago. Having gone through the Instructable there certainly is provision for different thicknesses of material and they can be clamped down. I like this version of a bending brake and will hopefully make it myself later this year.
Any thickness can be clamped down by the press, agreed, but when the bender is folding the sheet, there needs to be an equal distance same as the material thickness, plus the inside bend radius, which is absolutely necessary of course away from the brake for there to be room for the material to actually be there.
The outside of the material will be against the bender and the inside of the material will be against the brake.
So to sum up, the bender, in it's rest position vertical , needs to be adjustable in and out to change the distance from the pivot hinge point. Thank you ItsGraGra for pointing this out. The fixed bending edge needs to be set back at least the thickness of the sheet goods or the brake will be 'sprung' when a fold is thrown. This design, with the vertical clamping, would result in the fixed edge being shoved rearwards, the knife edge possibly being swedged up and an inconsistent bend along the middle of the work.
Some brake designs use a horizontal bolt adjustment to hold the fixed edge a set distance from the bending line. Thank you Kevanf1, you have put a lot of good work into your construction and Instructable. Locking the clamping edge both verticaly and horozontaly will increase the consistency of your bends.
Ah, but I am plainly not 'any engineer' :D I'm afraid I have not looked at or even seen a press brake close up. So I thought this was fine as it was. I'll take a look at the You Tube video to see the modifications. I'll still be building one later this year :. I think that cover your needs. Soon I will make an Instructable with these modifications. Maybe you can get someone to help with translation, pretty hard to follow the text.
Good idea similar to one I built last summer. Mostly easy to follow pic's. Keep up the good work. I've been wanting to make one of these for a while but the thing that has put me off has been sharpening of the clamping bar's edges. You have shown me the way! Thank you :. I am glad that my project is useful to you, and now you can restart.
You can see some modifications about this brake in my youtube video. Excellent instructable, keep up the good work. I always wanted a brake press in my workshop but I didn't want to shell out huge sums of money for a commercial one. More by the author:. So for my need to build a stainless steel barbecue I decided to make a sheet metal bender brake.
Also if you interested to see some modifications of this brake; you can visit my instructable page "DIY Sheet Metal Brake Fully Modified" What is a sheet metal brake A brake is a metalworking machine that allows the bending of sheet metal. Cornice brake A cornice brake has a solid clamping bar, the full width of the machine; thus, it can only make straight bends, the entire width of the workpiece.
Box-and-pan brake In a box-and-pan brake, the clamping bar includes several removable blocks, which may be removed and rearranged to permit bending of restricted areas of a piece of sheet metal or of already partially formed pieces.
Lay the 42" piece of 2" angle iron on top of the 7" wide top plate, centering it between the two end angles in the center of the sheet with the angle up, and weld it in place, with at least one inch welds on each edge 8 inches This will stiffen the plate when a piece of metal is clamped in the brake. The location of these bolts isn't critical, but it will look better if they are in line with each other and on each end.
These are the sockets the hinge pins will fit into. Keep it as straight as possible to the corner of the angle iron so it can swivel freely when it is installed. Center it on that angle, and weld it into position. Mount the brake on saw horse or your workbench with a few inches hanging over to allow the brake and slide a piece of sheet metal between the 7" and 14" plate, snug the bolts down to clamp it, and pull the pipe handle towards you to bend the metal.
Yes No. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 3. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. By using this service, some information may be shared with YouTube. Use heavier metal stock for a stronger brake for bending heavier sheet metal or longer widths. Helpful 2 Not Helpful 1. Test fit all of the pieces by tack welding them prior to completing the project so adjustments can be made if needed.
Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0. Mount this machine on pipe stands anchor to the floor or in the ground for long term use. Helpful 1 Not Helpful 1. They worked fine when centered inside the angle, but not when shifted. When shifted the washers would bind. I needed a triangular shape to facilitate the hold down sliding and to keep the washer in line. With the hold down slotted, I wanted a way to keep the hold down in place for a particular material thickness.
While just the wing nuts could suffice, lining up the hold down for material thickness and trying to keep it in place invited error. The leftover steel from cutting the 1. I cut the 1. I didn't want it taller than the hold down or to extend past the 2x4 base.
The bolt head butts the hold down, acting as a guide. The bolt can be screwed in or out to account for metal thickness.
A nut on the back of the bolt keeps everything in place. When tapping a hole, you need cutting oil. Motor oil will not suffice as it's designed to stop metal to metal contact.
I didn't have cutting oil on hand so I used vegetable oil. According to the internet, that used to be the main component of cutting oil. Go slow and make sure the tap is perpendicular to your hole. I painted it in black and orange because orange is my favorite color. The wood 2x4 is a black rubber under coat and everything else is gloss orange.
I left the surfaces that would contact the metal being bent unpainted as I figured it would just scuff the paint. The springs for the hold down make inserting metal very easy. The adjustability bolts also work as intended.
Once I set those, I can butt the hold down against it and tighten the wing nuts. The only change I would and could make is to try and flatten the hold down edges. The edges contacting the center plate have a slight radius. Grinding them down so they are flat against the base angle, while maintaining a flat and true edge would allow for a tighter radius.
To grind them flat, I'd have to create some kind of jig to ensure the grinder is absolutely parallel to the angle. Industrial metal benders have a curved tube on top of the hold down angle to ensure rigidity. I've got a little more than 38" between hold downs, which means I could get some flex. Until I experience the issue, I won' bother. While I don't need a metal brake often, it's good to have when needed.
Now I'm trying to come up with a project that requires metal! Steel is pretty expensive. It would seem that this could be built out of 2x4 faced with a steel surface like heavy gauge sheet metal , and get the job done for a lot less. For the base you could use a 2x4 with sheet metal attached to the top.
In place of the bending angle you can use a 2x4 covered with sheet metal hinged to the base. For a hold down you can use a 2x4 with steel strips under the front and back edges. You can counterbore holes in the hold down and base for springs. Reply 3 years ago. Heavy gauge sheet is going to drive the price back up. The angle iron is going to be straighter and truer than a 2x4. Wood expands and can warp.
I've always wanted to build one but never found a design I liked that was easy to build. This is a more complex tool that forms predetermined bends by clamping the workpiece between a matching punch and die. Brakes come in sizes suitable for light aluminum or brass for small boxes and operated by hand, up to industrial sized and counterweighted hand operated or hydraulic machines suitable for large sheets of steel.
Sheet Metal Brake Plans: After you download the file you can print them out on any desktop printer. The cover and pages can be hole-punched and put into a book form if desired or the pages can be printed out and tacked up on your shop wall! All dimensions are in inches , use your calculator or digital calipers to convert to Metric or other dimension.
Part numbers for commercially available cam-followers are listed on plans. Click on pictures above to enlarge. Very Portable! SOME basic milling,turning, welding, fabricating experience is required. Wunstroke will do any bending, paneling, hemming that an old fashioned brake can, with one stroke versus six!
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